A brief summary on the evolution, sustenance and future of Indian fashion industry
Text: Anish Shankar Images: FWD Media
The India Fashion Summit 2016 held at Kochi was the first-of-its-kind forum where key players from the Indian fashion ecosystem met to discuss the journey of the fashion sector so far, the challenges faced by the industry and its future in the global market. Here we give a rundown on what was said and by whom. Indian Fashion, in a contemporary sense, has evolved over time to become a melting pot of inspired design and craftsmanship. Talking at the Summit, Narendra Kumar, Creative Head, Amazon Fashion recalled how Indian fashion has evolved into its current stage from the early days. A time that saw people like Mike Kripalani or designer studios like Ensemble set off fashion trends and establishments like National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) playing alma matter to India’s budding designers. It was also when fashion magazines and fashion weeks stimulated India’s role in the global fashion industry.
While major brands and fashion destinations are struggling under bouts of recession, India is prepping its journey to the next best fashion destination. Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee speaking at the event said that India is the only destination with the ability to offer people authentic real-time experiences. “People are moving away from the concept of consumption-oriented fashion to one based on wellness. Wellness will be the new luxury and there is no better place to start than Kerala, God’s Own Country”, he expressed.
Local Trends and Global Brands
India is an exotic destination with a vibrant market for traditional wear and equally assertive demand for contemporary designs. This coincides with the heightened sense of selfawareness among young Indians, their ability to make independent decisions and willingness to spend money on quality products. With over 400 million citizens of its urban society falling under the age of 35, India appears to offer a lucrative market opportunity for both local as well as global brands. However, as the population’s exposure to fashion increases, they become quite clear on the choices they make and start looking for authentic brands, western or Indian, as long as it keeps a certain integrity, image, style or brand.
While global brands are looking to bite a chunk out of the Indian market, local designers are aspiring to go global. Responding to a question on how India can attract the West, Sabyasachi said, “Just be Indian”. He assessed the flower power movement of the 70s to be a direct result of the period of excess in 50s and 60s. According to him, there was an organic need to break away from excess commercialization and be free-spirited individuals. “We are going through a period of mechanised consumption now and people have started looking for transcendental experiences that go beyond clothing or luxury. No other country can give people that other than India.”
New Designers and Challenges Ahead
Sabyasachi believes that repetition creates iconism. He claims that the sustenance of any ecosystem relies on the entry of new players to the market. They create differentiation and add value to the market as a whole. These players face plenty of challenges while trying to minimalise errors in a social media-driven market. It’s more important for them is to identify and define their brand and refine it over a period of time. While addressing a question on how young designers should find their niche, Designer Nikhil Mehra says that their own brand took years to find a position in the market. “There was no lacuna we were trying to fill. We focused on what we did and waited for the market to get ready for it. You have to believe in what you do and the time will come when the market accepts it. It’s almost like meditation.” He believes that the world will change around your belief.
Strobe lights and Star-studded nights
Fashion weeks are powerful platforms that launch new designers to the industry. Since 2000, these events have been growing leaps and bound, becoming an integral part of the industry in talent acquisition. Jaspreet Chandhok, who works with IMG Reliance in organising the Lakme Fashion Week, feels that each event provides an interface for designers to showcase their work on a larger platform. Speaking of the Lakme Fashion Week, in particular, he says, “It focuses on younger fashion. It’s Gen Next Program has unearthed designers like Rahul Mishra and Masaba Gupta.” He says they are also extending the concept to retail and trying to work with younger designers to help build their retail sales.
Online Fashion and its Emerging Role
Online stores have taken fashion and designer wear to the masses in a way that was unfathomable a few years back. While these e-commerce brands pose a challenge to brickand-motor stores which were the sole outlets of designer wear, they also come few perks. Pernia’s Popup Store, an online store by designer Pernia Qureshi has been able to outperform industry giants such as Amazon, Flipkart, Myntra and Jabong in sales of designer wear. Her success stems from a focused approach and clear USP, unlike the others who sell multiple garments at a variable price range that leaves the consumer confused. Pernia Qureshi feels the traction for her brand is proportional to the experience she carries. She says, “When you are a luxury shopper, you aspire to have a wonderful experience. There are many customers who buy within the price range of Rs 2000 – Rs 5000, and not in lakhs. But, they come to the site for a luxurious experience.” She believes it’s about finding the best of the best for her customers so they can easily find what they are looking for.
Demystifying Fashion
For a long time, fashion in designer wear was associated with luxury and that hindered many from even entering a store. Even the Fashion Weeks were a closed circuit. This is where social media has been changing the rule of engagement by providing accessibility for a new set of people. Social media managed to normalise fashion for a larger circle. There will be a clear demarcation between the Sabyasachis or Narendra Kumar’s of fashion and the steady stream of young designers entering the market with their own prêt labels.
The disparity between couture designers, who cater to the luxury market and the fast-fashion which you find in malls is reducing. But a lot of new designers have come up with luxury fashion at prices close to high-street fashion. Online shopping also has helped take away that intimidation one feels in a luxury shopping space. You can buy a dress for a lakh or Rs 5000 in your pyjamas and it doesn’t matter. It’s really up to the individual to choose what they want and to buy it.